My voyage on the Peace Boat made several stops in a region previously unknown to me. I have known many people who were from or had lived in South and Central America, and even more who had travelled there. In fact, my grandfather and his siblings grew up in the Amazon region of Brazil! Because of this family history and because I had not yet travelled to South America, Belem was one of the stops that I most looked forward to. When we first discovered that we would be there for the new year, everyone was really excited! Where in the world would have bigger parties for New Year's?

Well, as it turns out, lots of places...

As we approached Brazil, we got more and more bad news... First, we were dropping anchor an hour upriver from the docks, and the ferries would stop running at 10 pm. Second, most hotels would be booked already by the time we arrived. Third, apparently Belem is not a safe place to be, and passengers were warned not to do much independent exploration. Finally, because it was a weekend and holiday, most places would not be open.

It was looking bleak. In fact, many of these points proved to be true. Even the tourist information bureau was closed, and the only tour agency open had ALL tours fully booked by Japan Grace, the travel agent arm of the Peace Boat conglomerate. So much for taking a trip to the Amazon rainforest... Well in spite of these setbacks we managed to have a pretty good time in the ghost-town of Belem at New Year's.

First of all, the Ver-O-Peso market WAS open. Although it was one of the spots flagged as "Dangerous," it was very interesting and full of life. I saw not nearly as many signs of danger as of poverty. There was a distinct line drawn between the people there in the marketplace and those on the other side of the high fences, coming and going from the brand-new ferry terminal and shopping center. Guards at the gate were experts at intimidation towards impoverished locals, but smiled sweetly as cruise-ship passengers came and went. They were the guards of the gates--the physical barriers--but there were other walls separating people as well. Those exist everywhere, but I felt them strongly in Brazil.

In the market itself we saw interesting fruits and vegetables that I'd never seen before and all kinds of spices and potions sold by women who a local told us are "witches." I'd love to go back and get some traditional medicinal recipes! There was also a "food court" and areas selling clothing, small electronics, and all of the other things you might expect to see in a developing country's marketplaces. New Year's Eve night a group of Peace Boat people were there, eating at various food stalls and chatting with the locals. We had tasty meat, potatos and vegetables for a very reasonable price.

Later that night throngs of people flocked to the port area for a fireworks show. The barriers were as apparent as ever, with marked difference in the people gathered in the market area and those at the port terminal. On one side people gathered with their families and sat on the ground, while on the other people came dressed to impressed and mingled indoors at the VIP dinner or outdoors along the riverfront walk. We walked through both areas. The port felt very safe and sterile and glitzy, but the market area felt ALIVE! It was full of playing children, amorous couples and people there to enjoy, not impress, each other. There was great people-watching potential everywhere, and the warm breeze off the Amazon made it hard to believe that it was really New Year's. Unfortunately we couldn't stay for the revelry, and that was the closest we came to getting a true taste of Brazil's party atmosphere.

The next day was so quiet it was surreal. We walked the deserted streets and everything was closed. Very few people were out and about. Other than the bright tropical midday sun, it felt much more like 3 am in a small town. Eventually as we rounded a corner we saw some children playing. The young boys were friendly and started trying their English on me. "Hello! How are you?" I really believe children are the greatest force for peace in the world. They are naturally open and loving. They can make friends with anyone. They see the true beauty and wonder in small things that I typically take for granted. It is impossible for me to see children in any country and not smile. ...And I don't think I am the only one...

Those boys were just the first wonderful children to cross my path that day. A few blocks ahead we came to a park. There were beautiful mango trees and just as we were passing a man had arrived with his two daughters. They had a couple of rocks tied to a long string, and they tossed one end of the string over a branch of the tree. Then they pulled back and forth, back and forth, shaking the branch until a mango fell down onto the grass. The girls laughed with delight and ran to scoop up the tasty treat. It was such a beautiful moment I felt blessed to share it with this happy family! I smiled and we walked on, but soon one of the girls came running up behind us, and held out a mango to us. I was humbled but thrilled at this act of welcome and generosity from such a small child who lived with so much less privilege than I do. But then again, what is real privilege anyway? They live in a beautiful city surrounded by the incredible nature of the Amazon, and they obviously have a father who loves them. That alone makes them very lucky little girls...